Koh Phi Phi

After 5 spectacular days in Koh Samui, we are off to Koh Phi Phi Island on the west coast of the Thailand peninsula. We caught an early bus at 6:30am so we could get to the ferry terminal. But in proper Thai fashion, the driver shows up over 45 min late. Consequently he had to NASCAR drive along the small island streets so we could make our ferry in time. But he took it too far and was being completely reckless and driving like an idiot. I was actually scared for our lives. One Israeli woman asked him to slow down and he screamed at her in Thai and then told her if she didn’t want to make the ferry, she could get off the minibus. What an ass...

We make the ferry with 2 minutes to spare and enjoy the beautiful views out the window until we reach Surat Thani about an hour and a half later. From there we boarded a sh!tty tour bus so we could get to Krabi. It was an awful bus, one comparable to Indian standards. When we were encircled by a monsoon cloud, the ceiling began to leak water on our heads while we struggled to get comfortable in the decrepit, antique seats. 

Fortunately it wasn't long before we arrived in Krabi at about 1pm. We only wanted to stay there one day so we didn't spend all day travelling. We caught a songtaew to the marina area where all the guesthouses were. There wasn't much to the city so it didn't take us long to find a suitable place to rest our feet at. 

The western monsoon season starts in August and ends in November. This is the opposite of the eastern monsoon so while we had amazing weather in Koh Samui, we knew it wasn't going to be quite as lovely in Koh Phi Phi. As a result, we were the only one staying at this nice guesthouse run by a cute Chinese family in Krabi. 

Pad thai feast

After getting settled, we walked around the city and found a cheap Thai restaurant to have some lunch. Then we walked to the river and rented a longtail boat to take us to the caves. The caves were really cool and we managed to get break in the rain. There were different kinds of ancient drawings from when it was used by humans thousands of years ago. There were also remnants of Japanese inhabitants during WWII occupation. It was pretty sweet to see all the stalactites and stalagmites among the beautiful tropical scenery.  When we returned to the guesthouse, we were feeling a bit guilty about all the pad thai, rice, and curries we've been eating and decided to do a 3 mile run in the rain. We ran along the river and it was incredibly beautiful. However when there's 20 mph winds blowing water droplets in your eyes, it's not fun. Our clothes were soaked by the time we got back and desperately needed a shower. 

Boarding the longtail boat!

Journey to the caves!

Queen of the mountain

Looking for Japanese POWs

Indiana Jones-eque

We got ready to check out the Sunday night market conveniently located directly in front of the guesthouse. There were about 20 food stalls (much smaller than some of the previous night markets we've been to) and we chose one according to the fresh vegetables displayed on the cart. We sat at a small table with cheap plastic chairs and ordered cauliflower with oyster sauce, spicy chicken salad, and salted pork. All three dishes we split between the 2 of us and came to a total of 70 baht, or $2.30. I can honestly say, it was the best (and cheapest) meal I've had since being in Thailand. Such a surprise, so we continued to stuff our faces at the other shops by getting some chicken satay, a banana shake, and a banana nutella pancake. I may have been in a serious food coma, but it was definitely worth it!

Best food in Thailand....

Pancake anyone?

Koh Phi Phi is about an hour and a half ferry ride from Krabi.... That is, in good weather. We picked the wrong day to take this ferry because the seas were exceptionally rough, making half the boat sick. Luckily, Heather and I were not on that list, but we did exchange glares with each pitch and roll that said, "We may die on this boat, and if we sink, we can open that window next to you to get out." We were frightened out of our minds and so thankful we make it to Koh Phi Phi safely. 

Koh Phi Phi is a group of islands east of Krabi and south of Phuket in the Andaman Sea. The islands are particularly famous for being featured as the location of the movie "The Beach" with Leonardo Dicaprio. It was also completely devastated by the 2004 tsunami and most everything has been built brand new since then and tourism is back to its normal self. There are no cars so you can walk to wherever you need to go. It's a small island with more travellers then locals, but it has a certain charm that makes you feel like you've got the whole island to yourself. 

Koh Phi Phi Don

We scour all the cheap guesthouses and settle at the Tara Inn where we get our own room and bath for 400 baht. A great deal for the location and facilities so we are both happy. Just as we are ready to head down to the beach, a storm front rolls in and starts down pouring for the remainder of the night. We go down to the water anyways and lay in the bath-like temperature water while the rain covers the epically beautiful skyline of the island. 

The rain limits activities on an island so we struggled to find things to do. We decided to head down to the main lounge area of the guesthouse so we could do some internetting when we end up chatting to and English bloke, Steve and a Dutch man, Nick. We hang out together while Mon (one of the owners of the place) treats us to some tea. Mon tells us a few stories about the tsunami and later we all talk about our travels until we become famished. Steve recommended a restaurant around the corner called Papaya. The four of us try to dodge the rain and run there but we got soaked anyways. I got some pad thai that was as big as my face and was only able to eat half of it. Nick goes back to the guesthouse while heather, Steve and myself go to Breaker's bar and share a "big" bucket of sangsom.  

Enjoying another bucket of sangsom

Take me to the gun show

Clearly, we are all feeling decent after one of those and agree to move the party to the Irish bar across the way. This place is packed and there just barely enough room to fit the three of us. It's not until we realized that it's 3 for 1 bucket night that we understood why it was so popular. The music was good and there was definitely a sausage fest in there, if you know what I mean. Good night to be a single lady. The rest of the night was awesome and we partied till about 3am dancing and playing drinking games. We both finally made it back to our room to crash but not before indulging in Heather’s secret weakness: banana chocolate pancake.  Success! 

The next day was partly cloudy but had breaks of sunshine which was perfect for kayaking to monkey beach. The kayak was inexpensive to rent for an hour so we paddled around Koh Phi Phi Don to another beach called monkey beach due to all the monkeys that make their home there. Despite the sand and jungle being infested with trash from other travellers (so sad!) the water was crystal clear and absolutely beautiful. With the beach to ourselves, we stayed for about 20 minutes before it was time to head back to the main beach. We laid out in the half-sunshine for about an hour and then decided to go shopping. There are plenty of little knick-knack stores selling cute clothes, swim suits, souvenirs and more. My ass is on a budget so I didn't buy too much but Heather went to town. 

Kayaking to Monkey Beach

Beach babes

It wasn't long before we were hungry so we went to Cosmic cafe and I got chicken in oyster sauce and Heather got a banana pizza (surprisingly delicious). It was cheap and good. Yum! 

We relaxed for the next few hours while there was another rain shower. It stopped just in time for us to go to a rooftop bar for movie night. Tonight's feature: The Beach. It was cool to see the movie progress from Bangkok to Koh Phangan to Koh Phi Phi just as we had done. 

As you may have guessed, after the movie it was time for some cocktails, specifically some sangsom and coke. We headed to a beach bar named Slinky's where there was a big dance party going on. We ran into Steve who joined us while we gulped down some drinks and danced the night away. 

BFF's

Indian samosas! Special deal for you - Only 20 baht!

At the end of the evening’s shenanigans, Heather devoured a banana chocolate pancake, and I found my weakness: Indian vegetable samosas. These are some of greatest snacks of all-time. They are like a won ton. It’s a fried pastry and served with a sweet and spicy sauce. I had 3 of them and then decided to help the owner out and attempt to sell then myself. It took me about 10 minutes of shouting typical vendor slang (like special deal, you like you buy, come here pretty lady, etc) but I finally sold one to a young woman traveller. It was hysterical!

As previously mentioned, Koh Phi Phi is famous for the movie The Beach. The actual beach it's filmed on is on a different island called Koh Phi Phi Leh about a 15 min boat taxi south. For 250 baht we jumped onto a longtail boat with about 20 other backpackers for an afternoon adventure on Koh Phi Phi Leh. First we stopped at a different monkey beach where one of the girls was dumb enough to provoke a monkey and it severely scratched her arm. What a moron... 

Next stop was birds nest cove where they’re famous for making birds nest soup during the ole pirate days. Yarg... Sounds awful. We only snapped some pics before going to a different cove where we were able to jump off the boat, swim around, snorkel, etc for about an hour. I wasn't expecting to do any snorkelling but all the gear was provided and the visibility was just an amazing as Koh Samui. Very cool, except watch out for the biting fish cause that sh!t hurts and scares the living daylights out of you. 

Birds nest cove

Snorkling cove!

Gisele Bundchen?

Sweet starfish

Under the sea!

We finally got to go the actual "beach" and it's more beautiful than the television perceives it to be. The cascading cliffs, the green tropical rainforest, blue sky (while it lasted), and the turquoise water cannot be justified through pictures. You must come here. Unbelievable. 

There are no words...

Paradise

Steve, Heather, and I enjoying "The Beach"

We managed to snap a few photos before the next storm rolled through. Before long, the seas were super rough and the sand was blasting our faces. So what can we do for the next two hours you ask? Well we do what anyone does when stranded on a beach... Build a sand castle and burry your friend in the sand! People were jealous and the Japanese tourists found it particularly amusing cause they kept taking pictures of us. Just when you think things can't get any better, the longtail boat provided free sliced pineapple, watermelon and a free sangsom bucket! Best. Trip. Ever. 

Epic sand castle

Thanks guys for making me into a ladyboy....

But it's a sad day. It's our last day in Thailand. Tomorrow we head to Malaysia so we have to do our last night right. We go to Cosmic cafe to get some good Thai grub. Then we have mango sticky rice for desert at a small restaurant on the harbour. While we tried not really drink too much, we failed. Or at least I did. 

Thai tea and mango sticky rice!

Heather, Steve, and I went down to Slinky's to check out the scene but we didn’t want to dance, so we all buy a large Chang beer to drink on the beach. It wasn't long before they organized a limbo contest. Heather and I both entered and won a free bucket of booze. Oh snap.... Of course Heather won and her grand prize was a bottle of vodka! But we didn't open it and plan on saving it for Singapore cause we hear liquor is twice as expensive as in Thailand. Despite trying not to drink too much, Steve treated us to some more Changs and we didn't end up getting to bed until 4am. I'm such a sucker for peer pressure! Fanstastic last night in Thailand. Malaysia has a lot to live up to....

Drop it low gurl!